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It would be excellent for that. Be sure to add 3 or more of the batteries I put down in the links so you can run it lots of hours.

60% more ability than a $4000 power station without the snooping WIFi and Bluetooth stuff that can control you when least expected. My China friends tell me DO NOT leave the Blue Tooth or WiFi card connected in anything you own. That China Military has all the inert coding firmware and no matter what you do, they can still bypass you. That is why Kiera demanded her cart be this way. 78% of the entire USA can be popped and dropped from China via our own idiocy! And to top it off, since Obama this has been their capability when that favored nation thing he passed was implemented. That info is direct from China manufactures, not USA deep state gov folks who have been on the China payroll since 2009.

For 36 and 72 volt 40 amp and 150 amp cont

@@simonroese2596 Ask away.

@@JOHNDANIEL1 looking to get a 36 and 72 volt bms and been doing as much research as I can. Do you still sell bms or work in the sector? I would like to grab some

Yes I have, and we have a second new one we got with points and credits. I will open it on video. Did blow $222 spent on the newest one a 2400w amzn.to/3WMoY9V but tons of honey credits and $190 Amazon card. It's a little bigger. The original is taking in DC power all day, running 2 of our 9 cubic foot freezers permanent. No faults, no fails, and excellent voltage. We ran a HF 100 amp mig on it, and welded using full mig power without issue.

​@@JOHNDANIEL1 Thanks. Can't wait for the open up video you do on this one. Hope also to see a video on the new 2400w one as well. I need to check out that Honey thing. Thanks!

We stay with the safer voltages, 40 and less and also not requiring higher volts from solar panels in series we get rid of 99% of the chance of fire. We do have 36 volt and 12 volt in our systems. Using Stions on the 36 volt ( 70 volt low amp CIGS Amorphous SOLAR that are fire proof ) and the other 90% is 12 volt. A near 100% of solar panel wiring and fires are due to running them in series. I can show that in a future video. But watch this, ruclips.net/video/RP2ITBfDBbU/видео.htmlsi=gWo18eR39Jxn8AfR to understand IT IS NOT SAFE! The uploader of that video shows the effect, yet fails 100% to connect what I have seen in over 200 installs. Its the failing cell in one panel that is wired in series for higher volts that is heated up in a series wiring and goes up in flames. If you wire ONLY parallel then this can not happen at all. A bad cell, buss bar, diode just stops that panels output. Nothing flows through the damage. As China quality drops, fires rise.

We stay with the safer voltages, 40 and less and also not requiring higher volts from solar panels in series we get rid of 99% of the chance of fire. We do have 36 volt and 12 volt in our systems. Using Stions on the 36 volt ( 70 volt low amp CIGS Amorphous SOLAR that are fire proof ) and the other 90% is 12 volt. A near 100% of solar panel wiring and fires are due to running them in series. I can show that in a future video. But watch this, ruclips.net/video/RP2ITBfDBbU/видео.htmlsi=gWo18eR39Jxn8AfR to understand IT IS NOT SAFE! The uploader of that video shows the effect, yet fails 100% to connect what I have seen in over 200 installs. Its the failing cell in one panel that is wired in series for higher volts that is heated up in a series wiring and goes up in flames. If you wire ONLY parallel then this can not happen at all. A bad cell, buss bar, diode just stops that panels output. Nothing flows through the damage. As China quality drops, fires rise.

Your RUN DELAY RELAY is fused and hung up. Rare possibility is the cool down bi-metal click disc is doing it, but that is real rare. Run Delay relay can be replaced with the ones made by White Rogers/Emmerson that I list below the video.

It's 14 ounces lighter than the CNSWI so consider that info. And the PQ model is from a company who's only been around 2 years, not 19

We were just going with Better air flow is more cooling. The design on all of them is very cosmetic more than function. That's why they come new with 7 or 8 EER. See my newer videos lately with the DC air conditioners in action.

Get more when possible. A pair is a good start but not high capacity for real back up.

@@JOHNDANIEL1These two are for portable use, trying to keep the whole thing under 50#, looking to get at least four more for a camping trailer project that is in progress. I’m doing multiple smaller batteries vs 1-2 large ones so if there is a problem with one it can be bypassed without wiping out so much capacity.

@@wickedmuffin76 Power Queen is a superior consumer grade. About the best small battery for the weight and lifespan ability is not the brand you would expect. E-Lektek 50 AH is the one, amzn.to/3y6Wa2n they make the EG4 rack cells and parts. And they are cheaper than most others since they are a supplier as well as a maker. Their 120 AH amzn.to/4di5aAl Has BVD 124 AH cells very unusual in look and install.

This will shock you, CHEAP price on Wattcycle. temu.to/m/ul9bnwbra2h

Love that!

Nah, you know that he's already ruined 10 pair of expensive shoes with paint and sealants so he got smart and started buying cheap stuff to ruin!

@@JOHNDANIEL1 wasn't knocking you at all I have a very talented and resourceful friend who always wears velcro shoes for the same reasons.

@@JOHNDANIEL1 - Cheap shoes and thrift store clothes are the way to go, especially on rough/messy job sites and/or for puttering around in the shop! Ruined some nice clothes on messy job sites, back in my younger days, til finally getting a clue and putting an end to that right quick.

I hate buying clothes, Kiera shops like a stingy granny. The rest of the family can't stand all the labeled and printed junk. I prefer more solid things to dump money into. And yes, them thrift stores and garage/yard sales is #1 for work clothes.

Get your power started, They are going to try and Venezuela America this year. Pick up batteries while you can, WATT CYCLE big sale. CHEAP price on Wattcycle. temu.to/m/ul9bnwbra2h

105 degree day, fresh start you will see 600 for a few minutes but 90 to 100 degrees its about 500 to 550 on max cool during full compressor runs. Once moving in the truck and cooler in the truck its 320 to 400 most all the time.

Lots of Discipline!! Or you have to find what's squealing. If it's the motor you can oil it, or replace it. To oil it, I suggest remove, use 3 in 1 oil, and a gentle hammer tap on the shaft ends to upset the bearing surface to extend life on it. If its the motor mounts worn out and allowing the blower impellers to touch the housing then you have to do some hillbilly magic to that.

It's better than we thought it would be. The Chevy is horribly insulated compared to a Ford or small RV but it's working good anyhow.

Excellent, has been cycled over 60 times and still pulling full output.

They are built better than I expected and cost so much less than the big named brands, even though built by the same company LOL!

Still prefer the 3200 for permanent installs, the 3000 for mobile use. Both are good solid workers.

Check fuel pump to see if it's operating. A beep is a over load signal which can mean a bad or locked up fuel pump or a tripped fuel pump safety switch. Turn on key while someone listens for the pump to run and shut off in the tank.

@@JOHNDANIEL1fuel pressure at Schrader valve on fuel rail is good. The beep occurs with a oil pressure light. I replaced a bad oil pump with no oil pressure. I have oil pressure now, but the same crank no start condition with beep and oil symbol on dash. There is a constant Check Engine light but no DTC codes. New battery, new oil pressure sensor, and newer starter. I think the PCM needs to be reflashed. The oil pickup tube was clogged but is clean now. I will also try a new crankshaft position sensor and clean the oil filter adapter housing but think it is PCM related.

Your computer is still seeing no oil in it's memory and sends the BEEP to note that. To reset the 2007 Ford Expedition oil light and computer hold on the engine, You will start by turning the ignition to the "RUN" position. Press the "SELECT / RESET" button to display "OIL LIFE = % HOLD RESET = NEW." Pressing and holding the "SELECT / RESET" stem for 2 seconds which will allow You to reset to 100%

4 to 6 hours is what we are getting depending on loads. High loads and constant loading it will go about 4 to 4.5 hours between fills. Normal use I can run about 6 hours.

@@JOHNDANIEL1 what do you think about the wen 2350 56235i? I was doing some research and it said that it had a longer run time of up to 11 hours at 50% load and is better for daily use.

Never had luck with the WEN brands, lots of bolstered reviews on them. But a Champion, They can do a full 11+ hours and you can get them in Dual Fuel as well with a genuine CPE engine, not a knock off. amzn.to/3LGHcmAwell worth the $$ and absolutely top quality.

Something is blocking the air in the RV from going back through the furnace is a common issue with those results. Like filter or screen or even clothes piled near a intake. Other possible is insects building nest into the intake/exhaust from out side causing air starvation to the burner, take a flashlight and look up into them.

The engine in it is a 5.7, was replaced in 1994 under warranty with 37K on it, so the engine in it just has 88K on it but the rest is pure rusting 1990 Chevy. So when it dies the re-use of it is why we chose this. The truck was salvaged of all the in-dash and most under hood AC parts for a vintage truck the previous owner had restoring. He was also to take the engine and trans but got sick and we bought this one as is for $750. Already made 7 trips Texas to Idaho so good money spent with it. Now it is our Shed building, solar and wind turbine installer truck. Gets 17 mpg and my Ford is lucky to see 11.5 mpg. This summer I got over 80 hours sitting in it cooling off already. Love it!! Thinking on insulating and putting another on the camper box roof.

@JOHNDANIEL1 I'd say money well spent for sure. There's always something to be said about trucks that are dead simple work machines. Always good to have a "beater" truck , love my 97 F150.

You bet